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Suzy Talks Turkey

The Turkish encyclopedia

Traditions & everyday life

The daily habits and old crafts that give Turkish life its shape — the evil-eye bead, the bath, the shadow play, the tea garden.

6 pages in this category.

Traditions & everyday life

Nazar boncuğu

The blue glass eye bead hung everywhere to ward off the evil eye.

Traditions & everyday life

Türk hamamı

The public bath house, a tradition of steam, scrubbing and conversation.

Traditions & everyday life

Karagöz ve Hacivat

The two heroes of Turkish shadow theatre, quarrelling behind a lit screen.

Traditions & everyday life

Ebru

Paper marbling: colours floated on water and lifted onto paper.

Traditions & everyday life

Mevlevî semâsı

The whirling ceremony of the followers of Rumi, turning in white robes.

Traditions & everyday life

Çay bahçesi

The tea garden: tables under trees, a samovar and an afternoon that lasts.

Questions

What is the nazar boncuğu for?

It is the blue glass bead worn against the evil eye, the harm a covetous look is said to do. You will see it pinned to a baby's clothes, hung over a doorway or a workshop and dangling from a rear-view mirror. The custom is far older than any one religion in the region.

Is the whirling of the semâ a dance?

No, it is a ceremony of the Mevlevi order, with a fixed structure and a musical form, and it is listed by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. It is performed for visitors in several cities, but it began as worship rather than a show.

What actually happens in a hamam?

You warm up on a heated marble slab, then an attendant scrubs you with a coarse kese mitt and washes you down under a great deal of foam, and you cool off with tea afterwards. Baths have either separate sections or separate hours for men and women.